Location : 47km NE of Bhopal
In 1989, Sanchi was included on the World heritage
list and is a must-stop for the millions of devout
Buddhists who come to India, from all corners
of the world, every year for pilgrimage.
Buddha himself never came to Sanchi; however
in the tranquil stillness of the place he seems
closer than in any of the other famous places
of religious pilgrimage which still follow Hinayana
Buddhism, the original form of the religion or
philosophy – whatever you prefer to call
it. Sanchi offers a lovely view of the surrounding
countryside and sitting under the trees in the
brightsunshine, it is easy to understand why so
many have gone away so moved and touched by this
ancient village.

Even if religion isn’t your thing, Sanchi
is good place to just unwind and relax, or explore
if you should so wish, as comparatively few people
venture here.
Sanchi can easily be visited by car for a ½-day
trip from Bhopal. The road out of Bhopal runs
along the railway and once in the countryside
the Vindhya Hills lie bang to your right –
the higher ground all covered in low scrub jungle,
the flat lowland cultivated.
Sanchi emerges from obscurity to take centrestage
as a hub for, first travelling merchants and then,
Buddhist pilgrims rather early in India’s
history.
Sanchi had, even before it caught the eye of
a certain king who made it famous, always been
a bustling village, or rather traveller’s
halt.
Because, about 7km away, is Vidisha which had
always been a strategic trade centre and a thriving
town throughout history.
In fact Sanchi’s ancient name was Vidishagiri,
the hill of Vidisha.
In the ancient Indian times, majority of the
merchants of Vidisha followed Buddhism.
It is easy to see why Buddhism might have appealed
to the level-headed businessmen of Vidisha –
it was a way of life that was not burdened by
caste restrictions and gave to everyone the freedom
to attain the respectability which comes with
wealth and social mobility.
We are told that rich merchants and patrons from
Vidisha opened their ample coffers to pour in
the money to sustain the religious life and building
activity at Sanchi, dated around 2nd century BC
to 1st century AD. For the Buddhist monks too
the location was ideal. They could live in the
calm and peaceful sanctuary of Sanchi (also called
Chaitya-giri, the hill of Chaitya prayer halls)
and walk to Vidisha, according to the tenets of
Buddhism, to beg for alms and their daily food.
The story behind the making of Sanchi and its
stupas is however nothing less than a fairy tale
– and it’s a substantiated historical
fact.
When the merchants of Vidisha decided to convert
Sanchi into a Buddhist retreat, they went to famous
Mauryan King (then governor of Ujjaini of which
Vidisha formed a part) Piyadasi Asoka (215 BC)
– before he became the most famous convert
to Buddhism – to ask him to grant them the
land. Asoka not only agreed, but also decided
to take a personal interest in the building activity.
Upto this point Asoka’s interest can be
safely put down to a king’s (even a would-be)
natural love for building and plain curiosity,
but mark the sequel.
When he came to Vidisha, the prince fell in love
with the beautiful Devi, the daughter of one of
the most powerful merchants of Vidisha.
The love was returned and it is said that it
is because of this connection that Asoka started
to take a serious interest in Buddhism. To honour
his ladylove’s faith the prince started
playing an active role in the building of Sanchi,
giving out generous grants in form of both money
and kind.
The love story meanwhile continued against the
backdrop of the building of Sanchi during which
time Asoka also succeeded to the throne.
Although they had two children, Asoka and Devi
never married as she refused to move to Patliputta
(the king’s capital, now Patna in Bihar),
choosing to stay in Vidisha instead.
She gave two reasons for this. Firstly because
she preferred to stay out of the intricate royal
politics of the centre and secondly, Vidisha was
where her religious and community work was based
and she was reluctant to abandon that. One suspects
that the first might have been the real reason,
because what with Asoka already having so many
‘suitable’ queens and Devi being an
‘outsider’, it’s hardly conceivable
that she would have been warmly accepted as the
chief queen in the capital.
Devi was wise to anticipate complex royal intrigue
– and wiser still to choose to stay away
from it all.
Many years later it was her children, Mahindra
and Sanghamitta, who led the famous royal embassy
that Asoka sent to the island of Sri lanka to
carry the message of the Buddha.
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