The striking group of arched terraces perched
higher up on the mountain slope to the west of
Chashma-i-Shahi is Pari Mahal, " the fairies'
abode," a ruined garden palace, the construction
of which is ascribed by tradition to the ill-starred
prince Dara Shikoh, who was beheaded in 1659 by
order of his brother Aurangzeb. Despite its dilapidated
condition, it is easy to determine its principal
features; for the garden has, probably owing to
its difficulty of access, escaped the restoration
to which the other Mughal gardens in Kashmir have
been subjected.
Pari Mahal differs from other Kashmir gardens
in that it does not possess any cascades or water
chutes, though it seems probable that there were
fountains in the tanks. Water was mainly conducted
by underground earthen pipes, though a few traces
of open water-courses have also been found. The
garden consists of six terraces, with a total
length of about 400'. The width of the terraces
varies from 179' to 205.
In the uppermost terrace are the ruins of two
structures, a barahdari facing the lake, and a
water reservoir built against the mountainside.
The reservoir was fed from above by a spring,
which has since gone dry, and of which the only
extant remains are the fragmentary stone conduit
and the retaining wall against the hill-side.
It is a simple chamber, built of rubble stones
in lime, with a facade of two small arches. Internally
it measures 11' 3" by 5', and has a recess
in each of its walls.
Water flowed through an arched drain pierced in
the front wall which is now partially blocked
up. At each corner of the terrace wall is a flight
of steps leading to the lower terrace, measuring
22' 3" by 4' 3" . In the middle of the
second terrace exactly in front of the barahdari
is a large tank with brick sides measuring 39'
6" by 26' 6". The facade of the retaining
wall is ornamented with a series of twenty-one
arches, including two of the side-stairs.
The arches are built in descending order of height
from the centre. Each of them is surmounted by
a niche, the height of which increases in proportion
to decrease in the height of the arch. The central
arch is covered with a coat of fine painted plaster,
which seems to have always served as a favourite
board for scribbling notices in pen and pencil.
Various people have recorded on this the date
of their visit to the garden. Among them was the
cruel Azad Khan, a Pathan Governor.
This terrace seems to have been screened off from
the lower court by a parapet wall, which is still
extant in parts.
The third terrace is, architecturally, the most
interesting portion of the garden. The entrance,
which is of the usual Mughal type, arched in front
and behind with a central domed chamber, is in
the middle of the east wall, and is covered with
a coat of fine painted plaster. On either side
of it are a series of spacious rooms: the one
to its north seems to have been the hammam. Fragments
of the water-pipe are still to be seen projecting
from a corner of its domed ceiling. Its interior
is the most highly decorated of all the rooms
in Pari Mahal.
On the south side of the entrance are two other
chambers, but it is difficult to say to what use
they were put. Both of them have pipes inserted
into their ceilings, the one nearest the gateway
having only one, but the other, two; possibly
the latter chamber was used as a kitchen. The
western half of the retaining wall has recently
fallen; doubtless it also contained chambers similar
to those on the other side.
In the central recess of the arcade is visible
the originally hidden earthen pipe which conveyed
water from the terrace above. From it the water
flowed through an open channel and an underground
pipe, which ran side by side, and entered the
barahdari at the middle of the broad end of the
terrace. In all probability the channel formed
a tank in the centre of the principal chamber
and then emptied itself into the pipe which ran
underground, of which traces are still visible
on the floor of the barahdari.
It is probable that these three terraces were
reserved solely for the prince's private use.
The fourth terrace has nothing remarkable in
it except the ruins of the tank - perhaps it was
a tank within a barahdari - whose plinth projects
far beyond the line of the wall. About the middle
of its north wall is the earthen pipe which conducted
water to the terrace below.
In the fifth terrace a curious feature of the
plinth of the barahdari, or the tank, of the upper
terrace is the numerous square holes with which
the upper half of its surface is perforated. They
were probably intended to harbour flocks of pigeons.
The retaining wall is arcaded. The arcade is a
double one, the upper row of arches faced a corridor
which ran on both sides of the plinth of the barahdari.
The sixth and the last terrace has a rectangular
tank in the middle and octagonal bastions at the
ends. The lower end is not supported by any retaining
wall.
The ruined structure a few yards below seems
to have been intended for a kind of a guard house.
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