The Hawa Mahal (literal meaning, palace of the
winds) is an important landmark of the city of
Jaipur, the pink city of India. It is an interesting
building, although it is actually little more
than a façade. This honeycombed building
was originally built to facilitate the women of
the royal household to watch the everyday life
and processions of the city.
Among all the states of erstwhile princely India,
Rajputana (now Rajasthan) is undoubtedly one of
the most colorful. Despite their time-consuming
preoccupation with war, the Rajputs, at all periods
of their history, have been patrons of art and
architecture. They were great builders, and their
forts and palaces, built for reasons of security,
residence and leisure of the Maharajas and their
women, are not only impressive but a very important
part of Rajasthan's cultural and architectural
heritage.
A study of Rajput monuments shows that it was
strongly influenced by Mughal architecture. However,
the Rajputs adapted and used Mughals styles so
tastefully in their buildings that it led to the
development of a distinct architectural style
of great sophistication and imaginative invention.
The Rajput style, on one hand, has traditional
Hindu elements like the chhatris (small domed
canopies, supported by pillars), fluted pillars,
lotus and floral patterns, etc., and, on the other
hand, it has elements like stone inlay work and
arches, which are reflective of the Islamic style
of architecture.
The city of Jaipur reflects a clever amalgamation
of the Rajput and Mughal styles, which has given
this city a unique character. Being close to Delhi
and Agra, and the fact that its rulers were powerful
members of the Mughal durbar (court), ensured
that its rulers kept the special Mughal touches
of filigreeing marble and sandstone alive. Fresco
painting and inlaid mirror work has also been
used extensively to create a fantasy world of
color and richness in the midst of bleak surroundings.
This love for decoration was not confined to the
royal houses but filtered down to the common man
as well. This is apparent when one takes a walk
down the broad streets of this delightful city.
Most places of interest are located mainly in
the walled city. The City Palace complex is the
most important landmark of Jaipur and has a number
of interesting buildings within its precincts.
If one were to select the most outstanding of
all buildings in the walled city, or the most
unusual, then the Hawa Mahal would easily stand
out. Built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh,
this remarkable structure adjoins the outside
of the City Palace wall. Sawai Pratap Singh was
a great devotee of Lord Krishna and he dedicated
this mahal to the Lord, its intricate exterior
wall looks like a mukut (crown), which adorns
Lord Krishna's head. It overlooks one of the main
street and lies sandwiched between more prosaic
buildings.
This five-story, pyramid-shaped structure is
made up of small casements, each with tiny windows
and arched roofs with hanging cornices, exquisitely
modeled and carved. Its façade makes Hawa
Mahal look more like a screen than a palace. Its
top three stories are just a single room thick
but at the base are two courtyards. It is a fifty-foot
high thin shield, less than a foot in thickness,
but has over 900 niches and a mass of semi-octagonal
bays, carved sandstone grills, finials and domes,
which give this palace its unique façade.
There is no definite record as to why Hawa Mahal
was built, only conjecture. It certainly was not
meant for residential purposes. That becomes clear
if one were to view this unusual structure from
the rear side. There is a total lack of ornamentation
on the inner face of the building. The chambers
are plain and more mass of pillars and passages
leading to the top story. It does not seem to
be part of the same building.
Built at a time when royal ladies observed very
strict purdah (covering the faces), it is widely
believed that this interesting palace, with its
screened balconies, provided the ladies of the
zenana (royal household) an opportunity to watch
processions and other activities on the streets
below without being observed themselves. The openings
here are almost like peepholes, partially block
by fine latticework in lime plaster, and some
with plain wooden windows. The Hawa Mahal lives
up to its name as one climbs up to the balconies
and is almost swept away by the cool breeze. The
royal ladies not only enjoyed the view but also
did so in great comfort and style. Today, Hawa
Mahal provides the visitor with some excellent
views of the city and a bird's eye view of the
Jantar Mantar (a medieval observatory and an important
tourist place in Jaipur). The best time to view
Hawa Mahal is sunrise when it catches the early
morning sun and is bathed in its golden light
making it glow like a gem. The entrance to this
strange building is on the rear side.
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